Remodeling a Highland Lakes Home

This is the first part of a four part series. (Parts I ,II,III below)

Highland Lakes is unique.  I’ve had the opportunity to talk with people involved in the early development, inspect many cabins, personally take apart and rebuild a few, and provide designs for residents remodeling their treasures.  The following highlights many of the whys and what’s of the Highland Lakes cabins, and the process of planning and completing a home improvement project.  Whether you are renovating, expanding, or undertaking a teardown, the information should prove useful.

Early Development

Highland Lakes Country Club and Community Association, HLCC, was started as a summer retreat in 1936.  [See the Highland Lakes Directory 2007-2009 for a more complete history of the area.]  The 1,000+ acre property was subdivided by Seckler & Shepperd into lots typically twenty feet wide, then sold in multiples to form a buildable site.

Cabins in summer-only retreats were more affordable second homes, since they lacked insulation and heat, and had minimal finishes.  The developer provided running water from May through September via a pipeline from drilled community wells along roadways to an individual tap for each cottage.  Several dozen cabins still rely on summer water, now supplied by United Water.Each cabin had its own septic system, typically a 55 gallon metal drum with holes.  Most have been removed and replaced with either a concrete tank, or tank and leech field.  All septic systems require repair and/or replacement about every twenty to thirty years.  Originally cottages also had gray-water systems to handle effluent from sinks and tub; gray-water systems are no longer permitted.The first cabins, built in the 1930s and 40s, were primarily constructed of stone or a combination of stone and chestnut logs.  The materials were indigenous and abundant, the stone deposited by great glaciers long ago.  Chestnut logs were in ready supply resulting from a devastating beetle blight which ultimately destroyed millions, leaving only a few trees of the original vast forests.  Construction occurred primarily on, and around, the main lake, as those lots were sold and developed first.A majority of the Highland Lakes cabins were built in the golden era after World War II through the early 1960s.  Servicemen were returning home, mobility was increased as car ownership multiplied and people migrated from the cities in the great suburban expansion.  To meet demand, frame construction replaced the depleting supply of chestnut logs, providing a quickly erected, and affordable structure.The vacation cabin construction was similar throughout the lake areas of the northeast, with developers adding their own stylized details.  Thus the unique cottage look of Highland Lakes resulted from the handful of patterns and materials that Seckler & Shepperd offered property owners.  That consistency was reinforced by the community by-laws which required that all designs be approved by the developer.  As a result, most were built by a team of craftsmen that quickly moved from one cabin to the next as the properties were sold.  Descendants of many of these craftsmen still reside in the area.Interiors were small.  The focus was outdoor recreation, hence the well-developed community features, such as clubhouse, beaches, and sports fields.  The patterns generally offered a cottage of about 600 to 700 feet, most with an open, low-ceiling loft intended for storing children or other household items.   Most cabins were two bedroom, though there were some three and four bedroom options.  Cottages often had an attached screened porch, approximately 10’x10’, further allowing outdoor enjoyment despite the ubiquitous mosquitoes and flies.  Given the small interior space of each cabin, most porches have subsequently been enclosed.  While the construction was suitable for screened porches, they lacked foundations, and should be inspected for soundness prior to further improving the space.

Highland Lakes cottages were built to the standard for cabins throughout the northeast at that time.  Construction of most of these homes has stood the test of time, but as evidenced by the bowed walls, sagging ridges, and foundation cracks, few cottages would pass today’s building codes.  Therefore, any planned projects also need to address both repair and stabilization activities for the existing structure.

Construction

Understanding the typical construction process utilized more than half a century ago helps clarify some of today’s homeowner’s issues. 

When construction first started, the land looked much like what you now see in the undeveloped property surrounding the community:  rocky, primarily deciduous forests.  Building sites were cleared as they were to be built upon.  Trees were felled, and cabin footprints were shifted to avoid stumps and vast expanses of stone ledge.  Many of the dirt floor crawl spaces still have remnants of those stumps.  Foundation trenches were hand dug, workers excavated as deep as the rocky earth allowed, usually about two feet; present day standards require foundations 42 inches below grade to avoid frost heave.  Stones were gathered on site, supplemented by rocks gathered in the area and transported by truck, to form the foundation, fireplace, and any other stone features.

With foundation walls in place, framing members were delivered in a kit for installation.  Carpenters would quickly erect the wall and roof frame, build the windows, and side the cabin.  Materials and construction methods utilized then can cause problems today.  Framing members were full-sized, so aligning work with today’s material requires extra effort (modern lumber is smaller, e.g. 2x4s are actually 1½ x 3½).  Framing was often random, utilizing just enough material to get the walls erected; today wall studs are generally placed at 16”on center.  Window headers, especially for the larger openings, were undersized, and center window jambs acted as inadequate support posts for the header.  The roof was usually constructed with 2x4 rafters and occasional collar ties.  While few roofs actually collapsed, the addition of subsequent layers of shingles, and heavy wet snows over the years have caused rafters to settle, thereby sagging ridges and pushing the top center of walls outward.

On the exterior, logs were usually unfinished, and darkened with age.  Siding, if used, was installed over building paper attached to the studs; later construction applied a fibrous sheet to the framing.  Siding, usually painted, came in several styles:  half-log, milled with a curved profile similar to a log; rough-sawn pine boards, which were harvested and sawn nearby; and ship-lap siding, wider overlapping boards with an inset detail at the top of each board.  Street side elevations would often have decorative shutters.

The cabin would have site-built windows, most were in-swing casements, with permanent screens installed on the outside to maximize ventilation.  The living room would have a large window (either bow or picture window flanked on each side by narrower windows), and if there wasn’t a fireplace in the living room, another large window was often added.

Fireplaces in Highland Lakes were built by a handful of craftsmen, hence they look and operate similarly.  Most had a metal insert with side vents to circulate air to provide heat on the cool summer nights.  Many of the metal inserts have rusted and been replaced by a standard masonry firebox.  Unfortunately the fireplaces have a tendency to smoke unless fires are built and remain against the back wall of the firebox.  The problem is generally attributed to an inadequate smoke shelf.  Doors will help, if the fireplace is only occasionally used.  If you use the fireplace regularly, the solution entails rebuilding the firebox and smoke chamber.  But with other required repairs such as tuckpointing, flue repairs, and replacing missing stones, it is often easier to rebuild the entire structure.  Installation of a wood-burning stove is likely to require modification of the hearth and flue.  Be sure to carefully research the acceptability of a stove before purchase and installation.

Once the framing was completed and the structure roofed and sided, the interior-kit would arrive.  The material was generally random length, knotty pine boards, edge-beveled, with a butterfly detail on one side and flat on the other.  (Similar boards are still available.)  Carpenters would construct the single board thickness partitions, walls, doors, and kitchen cabinets out of the knotty pine boards.  The natural wood was usually left unfinished and has become very dark with age, or varnished and turned orange.  Clear fir strip flooring was provided for the floors.  (A matching size is difficult to find today.)  There was minimal electric service, usually two circuits, and a four-fuse service box (two used, and two for future); plumbing for the bathroom and kitchen completed the cabin.

In the mid 1960s, Highland Lakes was a cohesive community, of similar style and sized cottages – the Highland Lakes style.  Residents enjoyed low maintenance retreats within a pastoral setting.  But, the life style proved too attractive.  The idyllic setting, four-season activities, and relatively inexpensive housing enticed more people into converting to year-round use. 

Around this time, housing in the United States was shifting from bungalow to larger ranch and split-level homes.  People purchasing vacant lots in Highland Lakes also began building diverse style larger scaled homes rather than cottages.  These homes featured spaces large enough for full time living, insulated walls and floors, and whole house heating.  Initially, these houses had wood or composite siding.  More recently the owners have opted for low cost, little or no maintenance vinyl siding.

As owners converted the cabins to year-round use, they also often added limited space – either a small attached room on the first floor or a small partial second level.  The first floor additions were generally built very close to today’s building code standards.  Second floor additions were small, and usually didn’t address underlying problems of the original minimal construction.

Recently, much more dramatic changes have occurred to the original cabins.  Large additions have been built, or cabins have been demolished and replaced by structures built up to property boundaries and height limitations.  Some work stayed true to the cabin style in materials and shape, others introduced a shake style exterior with a multifaceted roof, more reminiscent of the shore. 

What the future holds for Highland Lakes will be determined by the owners and the regulators governing the area.  One thing is certain, the original summer only lake community composed of quaint cabins will continue to be transformed into an eclectic collection of larger residences. 

The next article will address budgeting and regulatory issues associated with remodeling projects.  Subsequent articles will discuss planning, design, hiring professionals and construction.

-Part II –

This is the second part of a four part series.

The first part of this series outlined the development of Highland Lakes and construction methods utilized in the community.

Building in Highland Lakes can be challenging, but with careful planning, details unique to Highland Lakes can maintain the character of the area.  And allow residents to continue enjoying the amenities, and the feel of rural resort living.

Budget

Budgeting for a project can be a ‘chicken or egg’ dilemma.  Which comes first?   You can’t plan the project until you know how much it will cost, and you can’t figure a cost until you know what you are building.   So, before you begin detailed planning, and requests for pricing, develop an understanding of the project and initial target budgets. 

For planning purposes, rules-of-thumb are initially used.  While the specific cost depends upon materials, amount of work, time of year, and a multitude of other factors, estimates can help create a budget and determine the project size and timing. 

For demolition, estimate a cost of $25 per square foot per floor.  If you are building, use $135/s.f./floor of occupied space.  For example, a one-story addition, approximately 20 feet by 20 feet, should be budgeted at $65,000 to $70,000.  For a two-story addition of the same footprint, estimate $130,000 to $140,000 – for many owners, this sized addition would more than double the useable space.  Wood paneling, detailed trim, ceramic tile, and granite counters, for example, can quickly raise estimates to $200 per s.f. or more.  If you are adding a deck and railings, the cost for treated wood might run $30/s.f.; if you opt for low-maintenance material (e.g. Trek decking) costs may be $60/s.f. 

Remodeling, rather than adding space, costs can be budgeted by item.  Plumbing fixtures (sinks, toilets, tubs, etc.) run about $1,500/fixture (which includes removal, piping, moderate-priced fixture and trim).  Therefore, a three-fixture bathroom (i.e., toilet, sink, tub), should be budgeted at about $4,500.  Electrical work is generally priced by the box, switches and outlets about $45/box, lights at $45 plus the cost of the fixture – remember, there are a lot of boxes per room, at least four outlets, plus light switch, light fixture, phone, cable, etc. 

Kitchens are typically big-ticket items -- $15,000 to $20,000 plus the cost of the countertop and appliances (though this can quickly increase depending upon cabinets and appointments).  The kitchen price will also go up if you modify windows, move plumbing, and upgrade wiring.  A new roof depends upon the height, configuration, and layers of roofing to be removed.  Plan on $250 – $300 per square (square = one hundred square feet).  Vinyl siding is about $300/square for a simple installation; adding details and shakes could raise the price to $400/square.  A new well depends upon depth, length of casing, and other factors.  Plan on $8,000 to $12,000 plus permit fees.  A new septic may run $15,000 to $20,000 plus engineering and permit fees; septic repairs will be less. 

Also, remember to budget for refuse removal.  Whether you use dumpsters or haul the debris to the dump, it is expensive.  Even if you aren’t planning landscaping work, construction is likely to create holes and do damage to the yard, which will require attention.

Doing the work yourself may save money.  Bear in mind, you will still need to buy materials, which generally run about 50% to 60% of the above estimates (e.g., lumber, sheetrock, trim, paint, floor covering).   These are estimates, but it is certain, whatever the cost, it will increase each year.

Ballpark costs will help you formulate a strategy.  Now let’s look at what the state and local government will allow.

Regulatory

Vernon Township is the primary regulatory authority for Highland Lakes.  Within the township there are a number of departments, including zoning, health, and building, which will review and/or inspect work requiring a permit.  The underlying tenet of all of the codes is to protect the health and safety of occupants.

At the state-level the Division of Land Use Regulation has jurisdiction.  So far, Highland Lakes residents have been spared major headaches as we are an existing planned community, and the State has generally ceded regulatory enforcement to the Township.  If your home is on a lake, or proximate to a stream or seasonal waterway, you should speak with the township zoning department for clarification regarding what improvements are allowed.

The health department has a big impact on what can be constructed.  While the residence may have multiple bathrooms, dishwashers, washing machines, and varying room sizes, the size of the septic system limits the number of bedrooms, and thus the occupancy of a home.  The original 55-gallon metal-drum septic has been replaced by requirements for holding tanks and leech fields which have greater land requirements, and restrictions on proximity to structures and neighboring utilities (i.e., well, septic systems, and dry wells).  For those land-bound by existing construction, which prevents full-compliance for a replacement system, you are usually allowed a “grandfathered” solution.  The health department will work with the licensed engineer designing your septic system to find a modified solution.  To date, the health department has not allowed adjoining properties to be demolished in order to combine bedroom size, (e.g., demolish two adjoining two-bedroom homes, and build one four-bedroom residence). 

Zoning can also restrict what a homeowner can build.  Each structure, including residences, sheds, and pools must maintain a minimum distance from property boundaries, known as setbacks:  front – 40 feet (corner lots may require two front setbacks); side – 10 feet; rear – 25 feet and 75 feet from a lake.  There are some exceptions, and the actual setbacks should be confirmed.  There are also height restrictions for residences: the building cannot be taller than 35 feet, nor exceed two and one-half stories.  Zoning officials can require ancillary structures (sheds, pools, etc.) no matter how long in place, to be moved if they infringe on the setbacks unless variances have been secured.  You can apply for a variance (which may or may not be granted), if your project does not completely meet the zoning requirements.

Zoning also requires a Lot Development Plan (LDP), if the proposed structure will increase the impervious coverage (footprint) on the lot by more than 500 s.f.  If this occurs, an LDP drawing and calculations must be prepared and submitted by a licensed engineer that identifies existing structures, existing and proposed grades, location of well, septic, and the design and location of a dry well for the storm water runoff from the residence.  This requirement (design and installation) often adds $3,000 to $8,000 to the cost of construction. 

The building department is responsible for enforcing design and material requirements which have been adopted by the State and documented in the International Residential Code, New Jersey Edition, 2006.  The requirements cover a number of topics, including design loads, material requirements, minimum allowable room size, window criteria, stair and railing construction, to electrical, mechanical, plumbing requirements, and energy efficiency. 

While the permitting process appears complicated, and likely to restrict what you can do, there are a number of solutions to the myriad of requirements.  Visit the municipal center and discuss what you might want to do with the various officials.

Part III

Planning and designing your project.

Project budgeting and regulatory issues

This is the third part of a four part series.

The first part discussed the development of Highland Lakes; the second, project budgeting and regulatory issues.

Planning

Initial planning should cover both use and financial perspectives.  What do you need, versus what you want? Can you afford what you want?  Is it a good investment, or will it over improve the home for the resale market? Does it fit the neighborhood and community?

Do you want to better utilize the space you have, or do you need more space? Maybe you’re generally happy with your house, but it would be so much more usable if you move a wall or two and upgrade the wiring or plumbing. Additional space may better suit your needs, whether it be a room, garage, or doubling the size of your house.

Do you need to renovate the home to improve energy efficiency and comfort? Remember, modernizing a cabin is a major undertaking and expense.  Before you install new windows you may need to correct problems resulting from the original construction. Adding insulation to the walls is difficult, and may require extensive work to the wall finishes.  Even the thick walls of the log cabins prove to be drafty in the winter winds.

Once you begin, will the proposed work necessitate other improvements to be done? Use the ballpark estimates to identify your costs, and then increase the total by twenty percent for the items you forgot.

Now consider your finances.  Are you going to pay for the construction from savings, or are you going to finance the work? If financing, will it be a home improvement loan, second mortgage or refinanced first mortgage? And what will be the resulting financial implication on work?  What might the property be worth once the contemplated work is completed?

If you intend to borrow money for the project, find out the requirements of your financial institution. When you make the actual application you should be ready to provide a written description of the work, including the parties contracted to complete the work, the estimated cost, timing, and any other information requested.

Be sure to budget sufficient time. Projects always take longer than expected. The home owner faces numerous decisions which may cause delay, weather may not cooperate, materials may be delayed, and the contractor and subs may have underestimated the required work effort.  Also consider the disruption to your life.  Can you use the house while the work is being completed, or must you find a temporary residence? 

You may want to talk to others to help delineate the alternatives. Keep an open mind; often the best solution is the one you didn’t initially consider. For example, if you are installing a new kitchen or bath, it doesn’t need to stay in the same location.  Maybe it would function better on the other side. Good planning and execution will save you money and time.

Design

The design step is critical in planning the space and efficiently utilizing your resources. Identify spaces you wish to create, then try to organize activities for better flow. Considerations include: house-style, room-size, location, views, privacy, and circulation. Try to avoid long halls. If you are including stairs for the first time, they take up more room than you think on each floor and require head clearances.  Remember to plan for pipes and ducts running between floors, associated with heating, air conditioning, and plumbing. Don’t forget storage needs for clothes, household items, toys, landscaping tools, and so forth. 

You will face trade-offs, as the square footage of the house is finite. Do you want more space dedicated to public areas (i.e., living, dining, and kitchen) or private (i.e., bedrooms and baths). Should a wall be moved a foot one way or another, thus making one room larger and the

other smaller? What proportions should a room take?  You may find it helpful to create to-scale outlines of furniture you own or plan to purchase, to understand the flow and space in the revised home.

Don’t necessarily limit your solution to the existing shape of the house. The inside organization, room size, and use will help determine the exterior shape of the house. The design exercise becomes iterative, as you juggle room configurations, roof elevations, and window locations – you’ll know when you have the best alternative. 

Throughout the project, there will be a multitude of decisions. Choices will include window type, size, style (i.e., vinyl, vinyl clad, wood); exterior siding type, color, and details (etc., wood, vinyl, cement composite); plumbing fixture type and color; wall colors; floor type and colors (vinyl, carpet, wood, stone) lighting fixtures, and so forth.   Some choices must be made early in the process, while others can wait. Anticipating these decisions will help you keep everything moving along and avoid becoming overwhelmed. 

People have found it extremely helpful to peruse magazines and clip photographs of houses, windows, furniture, colors, etc. which they like. While the final design is unlikely to utilize all of the ideas, they will help crystallize the ‘look’ and feel of your house.

A word of warning – don’t settle for what you have because of the apparent complexity of the choices.  There are a number of professionals available to help you. If you are selecting paint colors or wall coverings, paint stores will prove useful. If you are considering furniture, floor and window treatments, or a new kitchen, talk with an interior designer, or a home improvement store. If you are thinking of moving walls or adding space, talk with an architect.

In New Jersey, if the project is occupied by the owner and the owner will remain in the house for five years after completion, owners can prepare and submit their own drawings detailing the work. The drawings must fully meet the code and ordinance requirements. Otherwise the drawings must be prepared and sealed by a licensed New Jersey architect. Some contractors work directly with an architect and will take care of securing the signed and sealed drawings.

Talk to an architect – they know what is required and can probably help you decide if you need help. To find an architect familiar with the area, ask a neighbor, check with the American Institute of Architects (AIA), talk to contractors. Talk with several architects, discuss their experiences, how they might address your project, and ask for references.

While you can do the drawings yourself, there are benefits of working with an architect.  You can profit from the professional’s vast experience in better organizing space, including code required items with which you might be unfamiliar, providing better value for the work undertaken, and ultimately increasing the overall value of your home. 

An architect, if you retain one, will generally organize the entire project, will work with you to delineate what is within your budget, and will offer alternative solutions if you wish. Once you agree upon a design, the architect will produce construction documents required for the permit and used to build the project. The set of drawings can be used to solicit comparable bids from qualified contractors. The architect can help you bid a project and select the contractor, and can also review work as it is completed. 

The architect’s fee depends upon the scope of work, and generally ranges from five to fifteen percent of the project costs. A good design does not cost more; rather it generally shifts around total cost components. Most people utilizing architects feel the fee is returned multi-fold through better value from competitive bidding, fewer change orders because of clearly documented requirements, and ultimately a more useable and enjoyable space.

The final installment in this series will discuss hiring contractors and construction of the project.

Part IV

Contracting, Permit application with your project.

This is the fourth part of a four part series.

The first three parts discussed the history of Highland Lakes; budgeting, planning, and designing a remodeling project.

Contractor

How will the project be built?  Are you going to build it yourself?  Act as the general contractor, and hire subs?  Or, hire someone to do everything?  Handy owners may feel compelled to try their hand at the work, but don’t take this decision lightly.  While you may have the desire, do you have the talent to complete a job of this scale?  Do you have the time to be available for deliveries or inspections?  Can you complete the work in a timely fashion?

If you choose to work with a contractor, find a qualified person with whom to talk.  Ask friends, get recommendations from material suppliers, look at the names on trucks working in the area, have recommendations made by your architect.  The person doing the work must be skilled, experienced, able to manage resources (people, materials, time), and have problem solving capabilities.  Talk to them about your project, similar experiences, timing, and references.  Be sure to discuss the type and amount of insurance they carry.

Unless you request pricing in a specific format, it may be difficult to compare bids.  Some contractors may charge time and materials for a project.  Others may offer a fixed price.  A time and materials (T&M) approach may facilitate modifying the scope, and the contractor’s ability to respond to the unexpected.  On the other hand, you may feel that the work is progressing too slowly, as there seems to be no incentive for the contractor to finish.  A firm contract price successfully locks in a price, but you may feel that the contractor is rushing and cutting corners to make a greater profit. 

Either approach may be suitable for your project.  In the end, you need to feel comfortable with whomever you have doing the work.  Whatever course you take, allow a fair profit for the contractor.  If the contractor starts the project, but can’t afford to finish, what is the value of a great price if the work is never completed?

If you hire a contractor, make sure you have a written contract.  The contract may be as brief as one page identifying the project location, owner, service provider, project scope, when the project will begin and end, and the price and payment schedule.  It may be beneficial to go into more detail such as identifying what constitutes a delay, remedies, how to handle the project if it increases or decreases in size, and so on. 

Talk to your attorney the decision is likely to save you many headaches, and considerable money.  Every project, no matter how well planned, will have a few problems, whether it be material delays, weather, or an illness.  It is better to agree with your contractor before the project begins on how problems will be handled, rather than in court.

Permit Application

The permit application will require the name and license number of the contractor and all subcontractors, each of which must be licensed to do business in New Jersey.  As with the drawings, New Jersey allows homeowners to do all of the work themselves.  If the owner acts as the general contractor, and utilizes subcontractors, then the subcontractors must be licensed to do business in New Jersey. You will also need a certificate from the tax collector stating that all property tax payments are current.

Once plans are submitted, the governmental review process takes about three weeks but can be longer depending upon the scope of work.  At the completion of the review, additional information or clarification may be required.

The permit fee is based upon type and scope of work, typically ranging from $25 to several thousand dollars.  The fees cover administrative costs for the town, including record keeping and inspections. While homeowners may balk at the fee and process, the cost is well worth it.  Inspectors are trained professionals, there to help ensure compliance with health and safety regulations, as well as review the quality of the work performed.  Vernon officials, some of whom live in the Highland Lakes community, understand the difficulties with our restricted lots and unique community, and work with residents. 

Construction

Once you have the permit, but prior to commencing work, you need to confirm the timing and budget with all parties involved. It’s helpful to have a schedule, identifying the order in which items are to be undertaken, when key decisions and inspections are required, and when payments are due. 

Weather can be harsh on the mountain, especially from December through March.  Heavy snows (depth and weight), can slow or stop a project, so be prepared.  Also realize that the width, slope, and condition of roads may make it difficult for material delivery, e.g., cement trucks, semis, cranes.  Verify site accessibility, and/or be ready to move material in smaller loads, or by hand. 

Don’t stand in the way of progress.  If you are providing materials, make sure they are available.  You don’t want to wait two weeks for concrete, seven days for a special order timber connector, or six weeks for cabinet deliveries.  And if you are responsible for preparation, such as moving furniture or demolition, make sure your work is completed when promised.

If you have hired contractors, make sure they and their subs are available and willing to start.  Also, get a certificate of insurance for your project from each contractor prior to the initial payment.

Now you can start construction.  Know when building permit inspections are required, (i.e., footings, plumbing, electric, mechanical, framing, insulation, fire protection, and final).  Missing an inspection can result in work being slowed or worse, requiring walls to be reopened for inspection, rebuilding work, or replacement of equipment.

Owners have found it helpful to take before and progress photographs of the project, no matter how large the effort.  These provide a record of project conditions, and can prove to be useful in locating items once walls are closed.  Many owners create on-line photo albums and share the project with friends and relatives via the web.  It is nice to have a “before and after” record when you are enjoying your new home.

Remember, progress must continually be made on the project.  While the building department may allow delays of several months, the project must keep moving forward or face fines, modified requirements, or revocation of the permit.

Project closeout

As a project approaches completion, there are several steps to finish the job.  From the government side, a project is not complete until a certificate of occupancy (CO) is secured.  While you may be living in the existing structure, you are not allowed to use the new space until the CO has been filed and approved.  Often, when the CO is issued the tax assessor will review the work, and possibly revise property taxes to reflect the improvements.  The tax assessor has the right to increase the property value regardless of whether the work is completed if they believe the owner is intentionally delaying project completion.

A temporary CO may be issued prior to completion of all agreed upon work, e.g., floor coverings may remain to be installed, final painting, and so forth.  Final payment should be made to the contractor once the final CO is in hand, and all agreed upon work is completed.  Make sure you secure all paper work, e.g., waiver of liens, as-built drawings, required by your financial institution.

If you are satisfied with the work, offer to be a reference for the people involved in the project.  You probably appreciated talking with their previous clients; and future clients of these contractors will be just as anxious to find out how they performed for you.

Now, kick back, enjoy your new home, and the magnificent natural setting.  You earned it!